Do You Want a Working Pet?. Try a Worm Farm

October 28, 2009 by Composting  
Filed under Worm Composting

Worm Composting


By: Diane Palmer

Did you know that worms will eat organic matter 3 to 4 times quicker than your backyard composter?… and with a lot less effort?

It is simple, it costs nothing to run at all, it is not time consuming, and you can make lots of very organic natural fertilizer free, that won’t burn your lawn or hurt your plants if you use too much like the commercial products.

A major part of your kitchen waste is organic, and should not be thrown out, but kept and recycled with your new worm pets!. Worms will eat just about anything that was once living. That includes: leaves, grass clippings, weeds, all sorts of household food scraps, natural fiber cloth, all sorts of manure (including dog and cat waste) paper products, and even human hair.

Worm castings, are what you get after the worms have processed their “dinner”. It is Mother Natures best natural fertilizer. You simply spread onto your garden beds, and lawns, and flower pots, with no worries about using too much.. .

Did you know that 2000 composting worms, can turn into 8000 worms in 6 months?.. all you need are some simple tools and containers, and it pretty well runs itself, you just need to make sure and feed them your food scraps etc, and they will be happy little campers.

Worm farms are also ideal for businesses, its a great place for employees to get rid of their food and lunch scraps. The castings can then be used in planters and beds etc, what a great way to keep all the food scraps out of the dumps, as we do not tend to use composters at work..

Worm farming is also great for balcony gardens in apartments, as there is NO smell, no rotting garbage smell, the worms process the scraps quickly, and you can produce quite a lot of castings for your balcony planter pots.

There are all kinds of great instructions and ebooks out there on worm farming, but a lot of people think it will be messy and stinky, which is not the case. This is a great way for you to help with the environment, and do your part to keep our world green. Give it a try and get some more information… how to make a worm farm



Container Gardening - Easy Steps To Successful Container Gardening

October 25, 2009 by Composting  
Filed under Worm Composting

Worm Composting


By: Chris Dailey

One of the more popular forms of gardening as of late is called container gardening. Its popularity is based upon the fact that you can bring almost any type of vibrant arrangement into your garden, home, deck or patio, bringing life to your surroundings in a very neat and tidy way. By adding different types of flowers including perennials, garden variety plants, or herbs of your choice, container gardening will create an inspirational treat for your family and friends alike. Here are a few ways that you can successfully grow plants and create treasures throughout your home with this new gardening fad.

The main focus of container gardening at first is choosing the type of container that you would like to put your plants in. Depending upon your particular interest or taste, you may want to use a variety of different kinds of containers including metal, concrete, and even plastic. Very popular models are would or would tone materials that look organic in nature. Also very popular are containers made of stone which give a very earthy feel to any area of your home or even outside your home.

When choosing a gardening container, you must also think about price and weight. Most plastic containers are very affordable and can be found in hundreds of different colors to match any particular setting that you may have in mind. If you are going for a stone motif, if you have had a bad back before or back surgery, perhaps a better choice would be something lighter than stonework, perhaps plastic replicas of stones in a container format that will give the same look and feel as the real thing.

The other thing to consider is the weight of the dirt that you are going to be putting into the container. If you are an organic gardener, and you are using worm castings or some other form of compost that is rich, this will help lighten the load as this material is light and fluffy in the beginning. Although you can grow plants of almost any type in your worm compost, it is better to mix it with regular soil which will add density and weight to the container that you are placing it in.

If you are concerned about the quality of containers, you may think about the price you are paying for each one along with the style of each gardening container. Terracotta and concrete, depending upon where you buy them and who has made them, will probably last several years. Prices, due to the exponential popularity of this type of gardening, have gone down and you can also count on them not weighing as much as they did in years past with the added benefit of being weatherproof and possibly even more sturdy than before.

Going back to basics, what in gardening containers are still very popular. If this is your choice, it is a good idea to make sure that the wood itself is made and they rot resistant wood. Types of wood that are good for this are Cedar and Redwood because they are made of a higher density would then say your typical pine tree. Folk may be a poor choice due to the acidic levels in the wood itself. Either way, make sure that you can live with your decision based on price and appearance before you choose a wooden container that may not be there in just a few short months due to natural decomposition.

When choosing plants for your container, your best bet is to choose something that is colorful and matches the surroundings that you are placing it in. Some people, however, like their planters to stand out and will choose very bright colors for the planter as well as the flora that they plant within it. If you are using them inside, make sure that the plant you use are geared to live in warmer climates and likewise the ones outside should be designed to live in colder weather conditions. Also consider where you live and how long you would like your plants to grow. Replacing plants can be costly and therefore you should consider these options before making your purchase.

Overall, like most fads, container gardening may pass in just a few years. However, with the advancement of most people toward a more organic society that grows its and food and creates its own compost to ensure healthier and better food for themselves and their family, using containers may play a large role in this advancement and may go a long way into the future as a permanent mainstay in most people’s households that are organically oriented. Choose wisely, and make your home a better place by adding a gardening container that is just right for you.



Worm Compost - Why Worm Composting Works

October 24, 2009 by Composting  
Filed under Worm Composting

Worm Composting


By: Michael Kohler

Perhaps you have heard the age old adage that you can’t get anything for free. This is true for most things in life with the exception of Irma composting or what many call worm composting. Basically, worms will take your organic garbage and transform it almost magically into a type of compost that is rich and ready to be planted with your garden plants to enhance their growth and make your food that much more rich. There are a few things you should know about worm compost that will show you clearly why it works so well.

Regardless of the affordability factor, worm compost is one of the richest forms of fertilizer that you can use in your garden today. Though this is a very simplified idea, it simply has to do with you taking a handful of worms, dumping them in a pile of dirt with some newspaper, a little water, and your every day organic trash such as leftover vegetables and in a few weeks you will have your worms producing the richest fertilizer that you may every news for your indoor or outdoor garden.

The reason why this is possible is that worms are ultimately natures greatest recyclers because they can take your organic garbage and turn it into expensive gardening real estate. Red worms are typically used in any worm composting bin which can be as small as a Tupperware container with holes or as large as a rain barrel depending upon how much compost you actually want to produce.

Be careful how much food that you give the worms because over time they will begin to overcrowd themselves and you may need to expand your operation which can only be good for you especially if your garden is in need of extra compost from time to time. Some people will actually use buckets and harvest the compost in as short as two to three weeks. Often times 50 to 60 days is necessary in order to keep a proper balance of happiness with your worms as well as moisture content and cocoon productivity.

Probably the most expensive thing that you will have to invest in is in the worms themselves which run about $25 to $35 a pound, which is about a thousand worms. Also remember that the container that you keep them in should be relatively warm as red worms do not produce well or create compost well in colder climates.

As far as a worm bin goes for your worm compost, you can usually pick one up for $20-$30 for a medium-sized one or if you are interested in a barrel, it would be a good idea to get a plastic one. Typically water barrels are made from Oak because Oakwood is used in wine barrels that are commonly seen in many landscaping schemes. Oak wood has an acid which is detrimental to your worm population so you would be better served to spend her money on a sturdy plastic container.

The average worm compost harvesting will net you a round 50 to 55 gallons a year. Make sure that the bottom of the barrel or the container that you are using has drainage holes for the excess water and if you have a lid on top it needs to be aerated with holes on the sides as well as on top of the container itself. Worms can be very finicky and you will have to get to know how the dirt fields with your hands in order to make sure that it is moist enough for the worms to continue breeding and creating compost area

Once you have your worms supply, and you have your bedding and dirt ready in your worm container, simply put the worms on the top about six to 8 inches beneath the soil and add the food scraps on a regular basis on the top making sure to close the lid because worms despite the fact they do not have eyes are photophobic and will not come to the food if there is too much light.

That is it! You are now on your way to creating worm compost for your garden. By following the simple steps provided, you should have enough compost to add to your small garden and create and enough food for your family on a regular basis all year long.



Stop Weeds With Organic Compost

October 17, 2009 by Composting  
Filed under Worm Composting

Worm Composting


By: Chris Dailey

One of the largest time consumers in the organic gardening arena is taking care of weeds. Most regular gardeners will go to the store and buy several containers of herbicides and pesticides and weedkiller in an attempt to thwart these evil intruders that will inevitably overtake your garden area and possibly kill off all of the plants that you are nurturing. If you decide to take the time every day to pull the weeds, depending upon the size of your garden area, this could take several hours a day. If you are a working person, this is probably not a good choice in that your time is limited but you do want your organic garden to grow and flourish. One of the easiest ways to combat weeds is with organic compost. Here are a few tips on how to use organic compost to help battle weeds that will pop up in your garden.

Every person has the ability to start their own mulch pile. Mulch is simply the result of your organic waste from your regular eating habits that you place into a pile with soil and other organic materials. Over time, this next year will begin to decompose as a natural process and will eventually lead to a dark brown material that you can place in your soil or on the topsoil as you are about to learn. Composting is the process that actually will create the organic compost that you will need. The mulch is actually the non-processed early configuration of your organic waste as it begins the decomposition process. Either one is fine to use as a way to cover your crop but you may decide on which is better for you based upon the amount of time that you have during the day.

If you are limited by time, one of the easiest ways to use organic compost to prevent weeds is to start a mulch pile several months before you are about to begin planting. Because it would be at the very least unsightly to throw your organic waste on top of your planted garden area, starting a mulch pile so that the composting process may begin, months later you will have, depending upon the size of your pile, enough mulch and compost to begin covering the topsoil in your garden.

There are various reasons that you would like to cover your crop. This could be due to weather or a need to retain water in your garden area, but for this particular purpose, you want to lay on a thick layer of compost on top of the soil on and around your plants in your garden area in order to stifle the growth of weeds.

Weeds are a very prolific plant which can grow in areas that most plants cannot. You might even see them growing out of the sides of walls or on the sides of buildings where it would not be logical for any kind of a plant to grow or have the ability to grow. Weeds, however, are not completely indestructible and do require the same basic needs that most plants require including sunlight, soil, air, and of course water.

By laying a very thick layer of compost on the topsoil of your garden, you will be eliminated in a very crucial element that is necessary for all weeds to grow and that is adequate sunlight. By removing their ability to quickly get to the sunlight, we needs will inevitably die because they cannot get above your thick organic compost layer.

In essence, not only will the mulch keep the weeds from the sunlight but at the same time we’ll provide protection for your crops as you grow them in the form of weather erosion protection and keeping the ground level at an even temperature so that the real crops can begin to grow. Likewise, essential nutrients in the ground that would be taken by the weeds will now be safe as the weeds again to die and only your organic plants begin to flourish.

Therefore, by taking the time to plan ahead and creating your own little system for taking your organic waste outside and placing it into a bin or a covered pile so that it can begin to decompose, you will create for yourself a natural and free layer of protection for your up and coming garden. You could also go to your local store and purchase humus or some kind of composting material in a bag which would also work in the same manner.

The bottom line is that either one will protect not only your plants that you are growing but also give you many more hours of free time that she would otherwise lose trying to protect your organic garden by stopping the inevitability of weed growth.



How to Manage Your Compost in Organic Garden

October 17, 2009 by Composting  
Filed under Worm Composting

Worm Composting


By: Jaden Santon

Composting can be as simple or as complex as you want to make it. The best part about creating compost is that it can consist of any organic material and we all have access to plenty of that every single day because it is produced by the lawn, garden, and kitchen.  Compost is what happens when leaves, grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, woodchips, straw, and small twigs are combined, then allowed to break down into a soil-like texture. Compost introduces and feeds diverse life in the soil, including bacteria, insects, worms, and more which support vigorous plant growth.

Compost is multi-faceted but not intended as a fertilizer. It offers only a relatively low proportion of nutrients, yet what it does is close to magical. In its finished form as mulch, it reduces evaporation, reduces or prevents weed growth, and insulates the soil from extreme temperature changes. Mulch also keeps the upper inches of the soil cooler in daytime, warmer at night.

Yet compost has humble beginnings. Common, easily accessible materials destined to decay together in a pile will give your soil the gift of minerals and other components it needs. The materials are indeed numerous. 

Regardless of the particular ingredients, making compost is akin to making bread or beer; soil-digesting bacteria like yeasts need warmth, moisture, air and something to feed on to keep them alive and growing. Almost all of the practical problems associated with making compost stem from too much or too little of those basic factors.

Compost is created from layers of grass clippings, leaves, weeds, kitchen scraps and, if available, farm animal manure. If you have meat eaters in your home, don’t use their meat scraps, which will attract rodents. Also, do not use litter from your dog or cat; it doesn’t break down properly and contains too many pathogens.

Over the years, composting has gotten a reputation for being a time-consuming job, but this is not necessarily the case. You don’t need to build a big box or turn the pile every so often. A barrel, a hole in the ground or a pile on top of the ground is satisfactory.

The important requirement is to be sure the waste material is covered with soil, so it doesn’t attract rats, other rodents or flies. You can build your layers directly on the ground, without any frame at all; if you use a container, be sure it is well ventilated.

The trick to successful compost is balancing ingredients high in nitrogen–fresh grass clippings, other fresh, green plant matter, most kitchen scraps–with those high in carbon–leaves, straw, dried grass, washed eggshells, wheat germ or other milled grains that have become too rancid or old to use, and any dried, brown plant matter. Too much nitrogenous matter yields an anaerobic, smelly pile. Too much carbonaceous matter results in a pile that never heats up. The ideal ratio is one part nitrogen to three parts carbon.

Start with a layer of brush–small twigs, no large branches–a couple of inches deep; this will help your pile to breathe. Then, keeping in mind the 1 to 3 ratio of nitrogen to carbon, add a layer of mixed plant material. You may enrich the pile with horse or cow manure. These materials don’t break down; they simply add nutrients to the final product.

Then lightly water the pile so it’s evenly moist. Too much water will interfere with aeration; too little water and the pile won’t ferment. If your pile sits in the open, you should pull a tarp over it before a storm, and then remove the tarp after the rain stops so the pile can breathe. An 8-inch layer of straw mulch spread over the top of the pile serves the same purpose.

Alternate layers until the pile is 5 feet high by 5 feet wide by whatever length you choose. A properly made pile that is loosely packed and well aerated will reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees within a few days. It should smell like wet hay. If the pile fails to heat up, pull it apart and redo it by adding layers of fresh green matter. If the pile becomes anaerobic (is too wet to aerate), pull it apart, let it dry out, use it as mulch and start a new pile.

After three weeks, the pile will have shrunk in size; this is normal. Dig into the pile with a spading fork and completely turn it over until the contents are redistributed; the idea is to put unfermented particles in contact with those that are further along. Let the pile rest, so the temperature will rise again. Turn it a second time five weeks later, let it rest a few weeks and, with luck, you’ll have a rich, crumbly pile of “black gold.”

Also, air is vital to any composting process. Without air (anaerobic) composting is possible but unpleasant with the putrescent of rotting material assaulting your nose. It is usually because there is too much nitrogen and too little air in the mixture. If you have an abundance of trees on your property, autumn leaves can be plentiful and messy, but they are there for your use and can be easily gathered and stored in leaf bags.

Timing is crucial. Your pile is fully composted when it fails to heat up after being turned. Then it is ready to use. And use it with a good feeling, for it is your garden’s natural fuel. Remember your objective, the foundation of every successful garden, is to achieve healthy soil.

Compost supplies the soil with a rich, friable source of humus and helps retain moisture in the garden, in addition to supplying valuable nutrients. By placing grass clippings, fallen leaves and unused plant parts in a compost pile, you are preparing them, through decomposition, to be put back to work for you.

Composting actually recycles garden waste and returns the nutrients that have been taken from the soil. By using organic composting agents, it is possible to speed-up the process of decomposition.

Now that you’ve gotten that garden in, how do you take care of it?



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