By: Warren Peters

The best organic fertilizer comes from your garden. Don’t throw out the grass. If managed properly, grass can be the answer to your composting problems. With a little effort and care, you can keep the grass from rotting. All you have to do is take a few precautionary measures to succeed in your goal of making the perfect compost heap.

When you trim your lawn, allow the blades of grass to fall on the lawn. Your lawn mower can do it for you if you make a slight alteration. Detach the grass catcher and mow your lawn as you usually do. The grass automatically falls out wherever it’s been cut. Ensure that the mower blade is sharp and the grass is absolutely dry before you begin your operation, else the lawn mower will get clogged.

You now have your own natural fertilizer. This process is known as grasscycling. It is economical and saves you the time and bother of clearing the grass or putting the blades of grass into bags. However, this strategy may not be viable if you have toddlers and pets.

If you wish to do things in a more conservative way rather than resort to grasscycling, here’s how you go about making an effective grass compost heap. Fresh mown grass contains moisture and is rich in nitrogen. There is a tendency for the moist grass to stick together, thus preventing the oxygen from penetrating.

If you simply pile up the grass, it will turn slimy and rot. The smell is offensive, to say the least. The best way to prevent the grass from caking up is to layer it with materials that have high carbon content. These browns comprise leaves, twigs or wood chips. These are placed in between the layers of grass and give the heap a looseness that allows the oxygen to penetrate.

In order to help the oxygen circulate, it would be wise to aerate the pile by turning the contents over, frequently. You don’t want the heap to turn into a slimy, putrid mass!

If you have more grass than other materials, you should avoid stacking up the grass to form one huge unmanageable pile that could go bad simply because of the abundance of grass. You could have many piles that are easier to manage. When you regularly turn each over through the summer, you will notice them turn into compost at which time you could lessen the number of piles by combining them.

If space is your constraint and you find it difficult to manage a number of heaps at once, dry the newly cut grass in the sun. Spread the grass anywhere in your yard and allow it to sun-bake the whole day. Once the moisture and the sourness go out of it, you can start your compost heap.

The one thing to avoid is to have chemically treated grass on your compost heap. In case you have used pesticides or herbicides to promote grass growth on your lawn, don’t cut the grass for fertilizer, unless a good shower of rain has washed the residue out.

Adding lime to the heap of grass for compost is a good idea to hasten the breaking down process. This is also the surest way to prevent mold formation, which is responsible for the foul smell.

With these tips, you could make your own fertilizer out of grass clippings. Not only is the method economical but it also gives you a sense of achievement when you see your garden flourish.

By: Chris Dailey

If you springtime is a fantastic time of the year. It is the time of rebirth of nature and the many plants that you will begin to grow in your garden inside your home or outside. One of the favorite plants to grow at this time of the year all are plants with bulbs. Unfortunately, having a successful encounter with bulbs can sometimes be far and in between because of not knowing how to properly prepare bulbs prior to the planting season. Although the preparation process can be difficult, even more difficult is actually getting the bulbs to begin to grow. Here is a process that I use called the jumpstart process that I use every year with my bulbs and how worm compost can be used as an organic mulch in order to make sure this process is quick and easy.

If you have planted bulbs in the past, you know the process. You wait for your plan to begin to die off. This is shown by the use and flowers falling. You can also determine this by the time of the year depending upon the type of plant you are growing. Nonetheless, once the plant begins to die you begin to help it in its death by cutting back on water and fertilizer to make sure it goes dormant until the next season.

What needs to be done now is a particular planting process that ensures that the is ready to go. Some people will actually take their bulbs and after cutting away the stall, store them in their garage and wait until the following year before they begin planting. Some will also put them in a bag or container and place them in a dark area that is cold. I have a more natural process that I use to ensure that the bulbs are ready to go from day one. Here it is:

The first thing that you do is go out to your garden area and dig a hole in the ground at about 1 foot in diameter and about a foot deep. You will do this for every bulb that you have so make sure that the soil that you are using is either freshly tilled or just simply easy to dig into or you will have a backache by the end of the day. So if you have 10 bulbs, you will need 10 holes. Although you can double up the amount of bulbs that you place in each hole, it is recommended that one is used per hole only. If you live in a warmer climate, you are going to have to dig down another foot or so in order to ensure that the bulb is kept cool over the next several months.

Next your going to need some pots that are going to last a few months underneath the ground. I would recommend clay pots but if you only have plastic and plastic is economical, just make sure that you have enough for each hole. You also need to make sure that each pot has holes at the bottom so that any excess water can drain out if it happens to go in. Place the bulbs in the pots with a very porous mix of potting soil which can simply be soil that you already had in the garden next with worm compost if you have this or potting soil mix that you purchase from the store. Light and fluffy is the goal.

Once you have placed all of your bulbs into the pots, and you have placed in the pots into the holes, you need to cover the outside and top of the pot with soil. Then, and this is where an abundance of worm compost or organic mulch of any kind would come in handy, you pile this on top of each of the holes about a foot or so in height and diameter in order to prevent the soil from freezing where your bulbs are. If you live in a colder climate, you need to add more cover material. Lastly, you need to have a way of finding each of your bulbs as the year progresses. If you live in a very warm climate, this is probably not an issue. However, if you live in an area that has lots of snowfall during the winter season, it is a good idea to use sturdy sticks to mark where your bulbs are so that you can find them in the spring if the snow has not yet melted.

Once several months have passed and it is springtime again, it is time to go out and get your bulbs from the ground. The reason that you place them into pots other than for protection will become self-evident now. Simply dig out the pots, clean the outside off, and bring them into your home. This is the key to jumpstarting your bulbs. Remember that the bulbs have been in the ground and were probably at a temperature of about 40 degrees. Now that it is springtime, and the interior of your home is around 68 to 70 degrees, this instantaneous change in temperature will cause the bulbs began to wake up and start the growing process at an exponential rate because they have been placed into a warmer climate almost immediately which causes a jumpstart to their growth process.

Using these simple steps, you will be able to have reoccurring bulb growth, with very little worries at all. Plus, with the jumpstart procedure, you can fully expect to see blooms in the next few weeks, or at least much faster than you typically see because of this system. If it is already springtime, it is a good time to begin planning where you’ll get your mulch, where you will plant your bulbs, so when time comes again, you will be ready to use this bulb compost jumpstart system.

By: james ellison

Compost, made from decomposed grass clippings, leaves, twigs, and branches, becomes a dark, crumbly mixture of organic matter.

Learn how composting works. Even a newbie to composting can make good quality compost. It can be compared to cooking as art or part science. The following 7 factors will help you master the art of composting.

1. Materials

After a time anything that was once alive will naturally decompose. But, not all organic items should be composted for the home. To prepare compost, organic material, microorganisms, air, water, and a small amount of nitrogen are needed.

These items are safe to compost at home:

* grass clippings

* trimmings from hedges

* vegetable scraps

* leaves

* potting soil that has grown old

* twigs

* coffee filters with coffee grounds

* tea bags

* weeds that have not went to seed

* plant stalks

These items are Not safe to compost at home:

* weeds that have went to seed

* dead animals

* pet feces

* bread and grains

* meat

* grease

* cooking oil

* oily foods

*diseased plants

2. What To Do To Make It Work

There are small forms of plant and animal life which break down the organic material. This life is called microorganisms. From a minute amount of garden soil or manure comes plenty of microorganisms.

Nitrogen, air, and water will provide a favorable environment for the microorganisms to make the compost. Air circulation and water will keep the microorganisms healthy and working. The nitrogen feeds the tiny organisms. You may have to add a small amount of nitrogen to the pile.

Putting on too much nitrogen can kill microbes and too much water causes insufficient air in the pile. You just cannot add too much air.

3. Beneficial Microorganisms

Bacteria are the most effective compost makers in your compost pile. They are the first to break down plant tissue. Then comes the fungi and protozoans to help with the process. The arthropodes, like centipedes, beetles, millipedes and worms, bring in the finishing touches to complete the composting.

4. Smaller is Better

The materials will break down faster if the microorganisms have more surface area to eat. Chopping your garden materials with a chipper, shredder, or lawnmower will help them decompose faster.

5. Size of The Pile

The activity of millions of microorganisms generates heat in the compost pile but a minimum size 3-foot by 3-foot by 3-foot is needed for a hot, fast composting pile. Piles that are any larger may hamper the air supply needed in the pile for the microorganisms.

6. Moisture and Aeration

If you can imagine a wet squeezed out sponge with its many air pockets, then this would be the ideal enviroment for the microorganisms in the pile to function at their best. Pay attention while your pile is composting, to the amount of rain or a drought you may have. Water in a drought and maybe turn the pile in a lot of rainy days. The extremes of these two may upset the balance of the pile. The use of a pitchfork would come in handy at this time.

7. Temperature and Time

Keep your pile between 110F and 160F and the beneficial bacteria will love it. Not too cool nor too hot.

The temperature will rise over several days if you keep a good ratio of carbon and nitrogen, maintain lots of surface area within a large volume of material, and maintain adequate moisture and aeration.

-Importance of Compost-

+Compost has nutrients, but it is not a complete fertilizer.

+Compost provides nutrients in the soil until plants need to use them.

+ It loosens and aerates clay soils

+ Retains water in sandy soils.

-Using the Compost-

+ A soil amendment, mix 2 to 5 inches of compost into gardens each year before planting.

+ A potting mixture, add one part compost to two parts potting soil.

+ Make your own potting mixture by using equal parts of compost and sand or perlite.

+ A mulch, prodcast 2 to 4 inches of compost around annual flowers and vegetables, and up to 5 inches around your trees and shrubs.

+ A top dressing, mix finely sifted compost with sand and sprinkle evenly over lawns.

The final thing I would suggest once you have mastered the art of composting is to look very seriously at making your very own aerated compost tea. This elixir will give you results that are hard to believe.

By: P.P.Shelke

IMPACT OF DEMONSTRATION OF VERMY COMPOSTING FOR THE BENEFIT OF SC ST POPULATION IN THE WASHIM DISTRICT OF MAHARASHTRA

                                                                                P.P.Shelke, Principal Investigator 

Background:-

     Washim District is situated in Vidarbha region of Maharashtra.  Earlier it was in Akola District of Maharasshtra.  The District was earmarked with remote distance from Distarict Place of Akola.  The population of the district was mostly tribal and SC and ST communities.  The education level was not so high and the major source of Income was the Agriculture Land.  This is the case when the KVK was established in 1994 at Risod. 

     KVK scientist have studied the basic needs of the farmers and it was observed that the majority of farmers were not using balanced fertilizers and also the balanced use of organic inputs was not there.  Therfore, it was decided to start the work from the poorest of the poor in the adjacent area of KVK Headquarters.  The scientists together collectively chaklked out a programme and it was submitted to Department of Biotechnology New Delhi.  The working of the project was during 2002-03 to 2004-05.

    

Interventions:-

 

     The prggramme was chalked out to cover 150 beneficiery phasewise in a period of three years to know the benefits of organic farming.  The starting was to be made from Vermy composting and later on the process of Organic certification was aimed at.

 

Objectives of the Demonstration:-

 

a) To Educate 300 SC and ST beneficiaries about the advantage of bio-farming and organic farming, b) To take utmost economic advantage of all waste, agriculture residue and cow dung in best productive manner. c) To set up suitably scaled Vermy compost unit on the land of 50 beneficiaries and provide hands on training and use. d) To provide technical and managerial backup to the units, thus set up including marketing assistance. e) To conduct Vermy compost application trials on total 5 ha area in main agronomical and horticultural crop. f) To organize Vermy mela to popularize the Vermy technology and use of Vermy compost among the farmers.

 

       Achievements:-

  

A) To Educate 300 SC and ST beneficiaries about the advantage of

    bio-farming and organic farming.

 

The training for 300 beneficiaries is completed. Training in other villages is still continuing. We are also incorporating the need of vermy composting in almost all training events. Farmers are being taken to the working demonstration units for getting better understanding of the concept. 

 

b)To take utmost economic advantage of all waste, agriculture residue and cow dung in best productive manner.

 

Initially the concentration was on mass multiplication of the earthworms. The mass multiplication is the only way for expansion of the project. People are using best quality feed for the earthworms. Upon getting the sufficient quantity of the earthworms, the people will concentrate on large scale production of the vermy compost. Initially the material being used is cow dung. People have been convinced of using other waste material for production of the vermy compost.

 

c)To set up suitably scaled Vermy compost unit on the land of 50 beneficiaries and provide hands on training and use.

 

Total 150-vermicompost unit are constructed on the land of 150 SC/ST beneficiaries during the total three year period.  In addition other farmers from General categories are also motivated to have small units from their own resources. However, the assistance provided is extremely useful and people will definitely get the advantage of higher economic returns for their future. On the spot regular skill development training are being conducted. One such skilled worker is also temporarily employed for the work.

 

             d) To provide technical and managerial backup to the units, thus set

                 up including marketing assistance.

 

The produce is being sold collectively. Marketing linkage is given through KVK, Many farmers are regularly visiting the KVK. We are continuously offering them the produce of farmers. The demand is tremendous and we are presently unable to fulfill the demand.

 

e) To conduct Vermy compost application trials on total 10 ha area in main agronomical and horticultural crop.

 

The trials of the vermy compost are laid down in soybean (Kharif 2004 ) and Bengal gram (2004-05).  However, as the quantity of the produce was less and many beneficiaries are using the  material in their own field, we have selected total Five beneficiaries for conducting the trial on five ha. area in each of the above crop as per the target of the current year i.e. during 2004-05.

 

Economic Benefits:-

     The farmers started production of vermy compost and saved lot of expenditure on fertilizers.  Some have reported better soil health and some have shown that the soil became live with existence of earthworms alround the year including summer.

 

     Following data shows the exact picture of the reaults obtained with use of Vermy compost alone and also with addition of fertlize.

 

     Some farmers have reported that they have got economic adavbantage as high as Rs. 50000 per annum due to sell of earthworm culture.  This is one of the major economic gains out of this work.  By adopting the technology of this project one such big production unit in Adjacent district of Buldhana is producting about 2 tonnes per day of the vermy compost, about 1 quintles of verms per week and about  1 tonne of vermy wash per month.



  

Table :- Vermicompost Trial economic benefits

 

S.N.

Name of farmers

Village

Crop

Area of crop (ha)

Quantity of vermicompost (Qt.) used

Yield (Q/ha) with  Vermy

compost application

Yield (Q/ha) without used of vermy compost.

1

Chandrabhaga Shankar Karade

Ghonsar

Soybean

(TAMS-38 variety)

1

5 tonne

19.20

16.10

 

Chandrabhaga Shankar Karade

Ghonsar

Gram

(JAKI-9218)

1

5 tonne

16.90

15.30

2

Subhash Bramhaji Jadhav

 

Ghonsar

Soybean (TAMS-38)

1

5 tonne

18.40

15.90

 

Subhash Bramhaji Jadhav

 

Ghonsar

Gram (JAKI-9218

1

5 tonne

17.20

15.20

3

Laxman Ramji Gaikwad

Ghonsar

Soybean (TAMS-38)

1

5 tonne

18.90

15.75

 

Laxman Ramji Gaikwad

Ghonsar

Gram (JAKI-9218

1

5 tonne

16.75

15.40

4

Shayamrao Sampat Pande

Ghonsar

Soybean (TAMS-38)

1

5 tonne

18.70

16.60

 

Shayamrao Sampat Pande

Ghonsar

Gram (JAKI-9218

1

5 tonne

16.70

14.90

5

Maloji Rajaram Surkute

Ghonsar

Soybean (TAMS-38)

1

5 tonne

17.30

15.90

 

Maloji Rajaram Surkute

Ghonsar

Gram (JAKI-9218

1

5 tonne

16.80

15.10

 

 

f)To organize Vermy mela to popularize the Vermy technology and use of Vermy compost among the farmers.

 

Vermy Mela’s were organized at KVK, Karda Campus. About 600 farmers participated in mela. KVK Scientist has explained the benefits of Vermy compost and organic farming to all the participant. Participant has also visited to KVK Vermy culture unit where the Vermy compost technology has been practically demonstrated to them.

 

9)Details of field demonstrations laid under the project:-

 

Table :- Vermicompost Trial Production Data (Kharif 2004 & Rabi

              2004-05).

 

S.N.

Name of farmers

Village

Crop

Area of crop (ha)

Quantity of vermicompost (Qt.) used

Yield (Q/ha) with fertilizer doze

( farmers practice)

Yield (Q/ha) with application of vermy compost.

1

Ramji Dagduji Kokate

 

Ghonsar

Soyabean

(TAMS-38 variety)

1

10 q/ha

19.20

19.40

 

 

Ramji Dagduji Kokate

Ghonsar

Gram

(JAKI-9218)

1

10 q/ha

16.90

17.10

2

Chandrabhaga Shankar Karale

Ghonsar

Soyabean (TAMS-38)

1

10 q/ha

18.40

18.60

 

Chandrabhaga Shankar Karale

Ghonsar

Gram (JAKI-9218

1

10 q/ha

17.20

17.10

3

Haribhau Shivram Fufate

Ghonsar

Soyabean (TAMS-38)

1

10 q/ha

18.90

18.77

 

Haribhau Shivram Fufate

Ghonsar

Gram (JAKI-9218

1

10 q/ha

16.75

16.87

4

Shamrao Sampat Pande

Ghonsar

Soyabean (TAMS-38)

1

10 q/ha

18.70

18.65

 

Shamrao Sampat Pande

Ghonsar

Gram (JAKI-9218

1

10 q/ha

16.70

16.87

5

Ginaji Niloba Ghukase

Ghonsar

Soyabean (TAMS-38)

1

10 q/ha

17.30

17.25

 

 

Ginaji Niloba Ghukase

Ghonsar

Gram (JAKI-9218

1

10 q/ha

16.80

16.88

Conclusion of the trials of Vermy compost application:-

 

1) The yield data of the trial revealed that their will be a 0.16% increase in the yield in the soyabean crop due to the application of alone Vermicompost @ 10 qt/ per hactre as compared to farmers practice/ local check (with chemical fertilizer). 2) In the soyabean crop the following major observation was noted in Vermicompost applied trial. a) Crop found to be tollerent to girdle beetle as compared to local check. b) Soyabean Crop in the trial found to be comparatively tollerent to water stress in the dry spell as water holding capacity of the soil has found to be improved. c) Drainage property of the soil in the trial has found to be improved. 3) The yield data of the trial revealed that their will be a 0.53% increased in the yield in the gram crop due to the application of alone Vermicompost @ 10 qt. per hactre as compared to local check i.e. farmers practice with fertilizer application.

 

4)In the gram  crop the following major observation noted in

    Vermicompost applied trial.

a) Crop found to be tollerent to Heliothis as compared to local check. b) Gram Crop in the trial found to be comparatively tollerent to water stress in the dry spell as water holding capacity of the soil has found to be improved. c) Drainage property of the soil in the trial has found to be improved.

Employment Generation:-

 

Total 5 beneficiaries were not having any agriculture land and they had taken up the activity as enterprise.  They have reported that they have earned about Rs. 1000 per month to Rs. 2000 per month.

  

Major Impression :

 

Trial in both crop revealed that there is no significant difference  in the yield with application of chemical fertilizer and Vermicompost on the other hand Vermicompost application will result in reducing the cost of production with increase in net profit in addition to helping in maintaining the natural balance and with out disturbing eco system which is the major objectives of the project.

                 

 

12. Summary

 

a) Earth worm hatchery has been established at KVK, Farm, which provides the basic earthworm culture to all needy farmers in addition to 150 project beneficiaries. Said unit is working as a practical demonstration unit for needy farmers. b) Total 1275kg of earthworm culture has been made available to different farmers through this hatchery. c) Total 150 vermicompost unit has been established on the land of 150 d) Beneficiaries having the average annual capacity of 6 to 8 tonne which approximately saves their an amount of Rs. 5000/- annually which can be other wise invested in chemical fertilizer. e) During the project period a booklet on vermicompost technology has been published which acts as a extension material for the disimination of the technology.

  

The conclusion  is summarized below.

 

a) The project has created a small side business for the rural SC and ST people. b) Farmers are convinced about the benefit of the vermy compost and the demand for vermy compost has increased. c) Technology transfer in this area is still needed and at least two villages in every Tahsil will make the awareness creation and demonstration of the activity. d) Organic waste can be properly utilized and some income generation is also possible with little efforts. e) More such units are required and follow up is still needed for demonstrating the success of the bio technology. Agricultural labors can have a small business and can get additional income with little efforts.

By: Dennis Copson

“If your garden was there before you were, chances are it grew out of many others’ dreams.” ~ Ferris Cook

It’s spring which means gardening time again! Time to tuck your plants into their outdoor beds. In so doing, many home gardeners make the critical mistake of sticking their bedding plants into the same old worn out soil they’ve used for years. They dig it up a bit, maybe throw on some fertilizer, and expect their plants to do the rest. I know a better way.

You can make a planting mix from scratch that your plants will love. It is easy and simple to do, takes little time, and is relatively inexpensive. The end result is worth the small effort and minimal cost.

First, begin with a good bagged soil of some sort. It need not be the expensive name brands for which you pay a premium. Just a reasonable quality soil as a base for the rest of the mix. For our project let’s say you buy a 20 quart bag of this product – a common size in most nurseries.

Next, buy a small bag of pure worm castings. You will need 4 quarts – about 10 lbs – for this mix. Ensure you have real, good quality worm castings and not some dilluted product which is commonly on the market. Nature’s Big Bud Worm Castings makes a premium liquid version which can also be used. Worm castings (worm manure) are nature’s miracle fertilizer and soil enhancer. They are organic, all natural, and contain more than 60 beneficial elements your plants need and use in growing healthy, robust root systems, strong stems and branches and beautiful flowers or fruits. Once moistened, they retain water in your soil thereby providing an additional benefit of saving watering time and money.

Buy a small bag of composted steer manure. This is inexpensive and will add nitrogen to the soil in abundance. The key is to not use too much of this in your mix. I am suggesting only 4 quarts.

Finally, you will need one pound of natural powdered Shidigera yucca (Mohave Yucca) to add to the mix. Yucca is another organic, all natural product; it is a wetting agent (surfactant) which makes water wetter. This will allow water to be retained in the soil and will give your plants a quicker way to absorb nutrients from the soil mix. Yucca also contains natural steroids such as saponin which will assist in insect and disease control once your plants absorb it into their system.

You now have the ingredients for success in making a nutrient rich, water retaining bedding plant soil mix. Putting them together is the next step. Dump the 20 quart bag of soil onto a flat clean dry surface. To it add 4 quarts of the worm castings and the 4 quarts of composted steer manure. Next add the yucca extract powder. With a shovel, turn the pile a few times until all the ingredients are well mixed.

This is your planting mix. Dig holes in your garden, fill them with this mix and plant your bedding plants or seeds in it. (This mixture is also ideal for container gardening – nothing better on the market at half the price you pay for prestige brand name products.) You have made a completely organic, all natural, homemade product which will benefit you, your plants, and the environment without using any toxic chemicals. You will be more than happy with the results. So will your plants.

(More info is available at www.naturesbigbud.com)

“A society is great when old men plant trees in whose shade they know they shall never sit”.