By: MIKE SELVON

There are many instances when homeowners choose not to get started with backyard composting because of the perception that it is hard to do correctly. In reality, you just need to collect the basic organic materials, find a place for the compost heap and then allow nature to take over the task. But, there are some basic guidelines to keep in mind that can help make the whole process move forward without a hitch.

There are a number of different types of compost bins on the market that you can use to help manage and contain your compost. But, a special bin is not a requirement that is needed to accomplish successful composting, but more of a convenience. It is easy enough to build your own bin for your pile and simply cover it over with a sheet of polythene or chunk of cardboard.

Some people, however, prefer to have their compost heap more contained and neat in appearance and to have it easier to manage as well. If that is the case, then compost bins can be a good solution.

These special bins are easy enough to find online or at local stores that sell organic gardening tools and supplies. Some local municipalities also have compost bins available at a reduced cost to encourage people to recycle their organic waste.

Making a compost is as simple as adding your organic items that are compostable on a regular basis. Any waste product that was at one time a living thing will compost, or decompose, but some items are not recommended to be thrown into your pile. Meats, dairy foods and cooked foods will end up attracting pests and vermin so these should not be used in your home composting efforts.

Dead and decaying leaves, lawn clippings, manure, and kitchen waste such as rinds, peelings, coffee grounds and even eggshells can be added to it. Older, thicker and tougher plant materials are slower to decompose but they benefit the compost by providing more substance, or body, to the finished product. These heavier materials usually comprise most of a compost pile.

Wood items take a long time to decompose. Whenever possible it is best to shred, chip or chop wood materials to help accelerate the rotting process. However, as long as they are mixed in with other materials that decompose faster they will still provide some benefit to the process overall.

In general it is best to have fairly equal amounts of what is called brown material and green material in it. Brown materials are the manures, dead leaves, small twigs and cardboard and newspapers. Green materials include hedge and grass clippings, coffee grounds, fruit rinds and uncooked vegetables.

You only need to have about one foot of organic material to get your compost heap started. In most instances, just mowing the yard and weeding your flowerbeds and vegetable garden will give you enough to begin. If needed, then you can also add organic kitchen waste and newspaper, and even a little straw if you are coming up short of the one foot level.

Once things get piled up, nature will take over and the decomposition process will start. It is good to turn the heap about every two weeks and within four to six months you will have a nice compost of waste materials that will give a boost to your soil.

By: greenorganic

Whether you have a large garden, a small yard, or only a few window boxes, good, fertile soil is essential for growing beautiful flowers and vegetables. But depending on where you live, good soil may be sparse and also be quite expensive. So it makes sense to take advantage of an ancient technique to create your very own garden soil: composting.

Composting turns kitchen and garden waste into fertile new soil. It’s so easy that anyone can do it, it’s safe, and it does not require much space or equipment. In addition, it can keep such a large quantity of organic waste out of our landfill sites, that many local authorities now run composting schemes. Along with instructions and advice, you may even be able to pick up a free compost bin, so it’s worth checking it out.

Compost bins make a sensible addition to any garden and come in many shapes, sizes and finishes. If you have some spare wood and are handy with a hammer, you can quickly create your own wooden frame and line it with overlapping planks to create an open wooden box. All you need then is a wooden lid or heavy-duty plastic cover for the top. If DIY is not your strength, both wooden and plastic compost bins are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased in any good hardware or garden store.

Bin sizes vary. A 4 feet (1.2m) tall bin will be fine for a family of 4. If you have a large garden, mow your own lawn, and prune your own trees and hedges, then choose a larger bin, as all the garden waste quickly adds up. Place the bin in a sheltered corner that you can access easily from the kitchen. If you have to trudge across a muddy lawn in the dark, you may not use it as much for disposing of your kitchen waste.

Fill the bin with ‘green’ and ‘brown’ waste in a ratio of 2:1. Green waste includes raw fruit and vegetable peelings, grass clippings, leaves, plant cuttings, tea bags, coffee grounds including the filter paper and eggshells, while sawdust, straw, shredded paper, animal bedding and wood (i.e. tree pruning waste) make up the ‘brown’ components of your bin.

Cooked food, meat and fish, used nappies /diapers, pet litter, perennial weeds, ashes and treated or varnished woods should not be added to your compost bin.

Fill the bin as you go along. It makes for better soil if you can balance the contents of your compost bin. As bacteria, beetles, and worms go to work to break down its contents, the bin will warm up. The contents of the bin will collapse and appear to shrink. This process can be very rapid in the summer, but will slow down in the winter months, especially during a cold snap. If you add too much green waste at once, for example all your lawn clippings, the bin can overheat and ‘weep’. To prevent this, always mix in some tree bark, hedge clippings, or even shredded paper with your green waste. That way, your bin will stay healthy and produce good quality, light soil.

Once you have been feeding your compost bin for 6-9 months, it will have become quite full and the contents will no longer collapse a long way down. When you touch the outside of the bin, it feels warm towards the middle, but cooler at the bottom. This indicates that there is a layer of soil at the bottom ready to be removed. Open the door at the bottom of your compost bin, if you have a wooden one remove one of the lower planks, and check the state of the new soil. It’s ready when it’s dark and crumbly and does not contain too many large bits of wood or identifiable components. Remove the soil carefully from the bottom upwards until you see the quality deteriorate visibly, i.e. there will suddenly be egg shells, tea bags and bits of tree or hedge in the mix. Stop there.

Close the bin up again and give it a shake or stir the contents up with a gardening fork to add some air. Then carry on composting.

The ‘harvested’ soil makes good mulch for all flower and vegetable beds. Just dig it in lightly and let your garden get to work.

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By: Vicki Duong

Earlier we’ve talked about the differences between compost bins and compost tumblers, and let you, our wonderful composting audience, decide for yourselves on what you thought would work better for your needs. Well, let’s put our differences aside and talk about worm composting, also known in the composting world as vermiculture or vermicomposting. There’s really not much to it, we use worms, right? Right, but not just any worms; red wiggler worms or night crawlers are the preferred types of worms to use. Why not earthworms, you ask? Well, I’ll explain that in a second, but let me first tell you why red wigglers and night crawlers are so beneficial to the composting process.

Red wiggler worms, also known as red worms and by their scientific name of Eisenia fetida, are recognized as the best kind of composting worm. Thriving in darkness and swearing off light, red worms are hardy workers and can eat half of their own weight. Additionally, they have hearty appetites and can live off of food scraps such as banana peels and chicken mash (a yummy mix of cornmeal and chicken meat, this is usually used only if you plan to raise your red worms as fish bait). Red worms also live well in damp places, and as fish bait, will wiggle around on the hook since they can survive in water for several days at a time.

Night crawlers which are popular amongst fishermen can also be used as composting worms. With the same performance level as red worms, they’re not really considered your number one composting worm. One reason may be that even though they thrive in cool, shady areas, they don’t seem to fare too well if there’s too much moisture; in fact, once they hit water they’ll pretty much just die. Unusually enough, fisherman seem to like using night crawlers as bait probably because they’re pretty big and fat.

Using earthworms such as the kind that show up when it starts raining is not recommended. Earthworms are great burrowers and excellent soil aerators, but they won’t digest the organic matter and leave behind worm castings, which is what you want. Your best bet is to stick with red wiggler worms. Though not necessary, mixing red wigglers with night crawlers is okay, but you’re fine with sticking to one or the other.

Vermicomposting can be a fun activity for families, classrooms, or even just solo. Just be sure to feed your worms and watch them as they do the work for you.

By: MIKE SELVON

Composting has become a popular means of recycling organic materials so that they can be used in beneficial ways instead of adding them to a landfill. In addition to being a great way to participate in recycling efforts, composting is also a great way to generate rich organic materials that can be added to soil for organic garden projects. Compost bins provide a simple and easy way to help people get started composting and are particularly good solutions for people who have limited living space.

There are a number of different types of composters on the market to meet a variety of needs and situations. Bins for composting can be built from materials that you already have around the backyard, or they can be purchased from garden supply stores, especially those that specialize in organic gardening. In some municipalities, the recycling centers provide bins free or at a reduced cost to encourage people to recycle their organic materials themselves.

One variety of compost bins are called holding units. These bins are very low maintenance and are probably the best solution when the amount of space for the home composting project is very limited. With holding units, the compost pile is not turned and therefore not aerated, so the overall process of decomposing will take anywhere from six months up to two full years.

Portable bins are another common type of bins and they are very similar to the holding units but they are able to be taken apart, moved and rebuilt. Different types of materials can by used and mixed with this kind of bin. Many types of plastic portable units are available on the market to purchase or they can be constructed out of wood and wire fencing.

One of the best types of bins is the variety called turning unit composters. These are specifically designed to facilitate easy turning of the compost pile which helps to aerate the heap. Turning units will produce fully decomposed material in a shorter amount of time because the composting process is accelerated by the improved aeration, allowing the bacteria to better do its job in the decomposition process. In addition, people like turning units because there are less odor problems because of the improved ventilation.

Turning unit composting bins can either be a set of bins or they can be a device that easily rotates or tumbles such as a barrel or a ball-type of unit. The drawback is that turning units generally cost most, are harder to build and require more space. The organic materials to be composted also need to be collected separately until enough has been gathered to fill the unit to the correct level and once it is full and the composting process begins, new materials cannot be added.

Simple heaps are an alternative for people who do not want o purchase or build composter bins. Turning a compost heap is always optional, but it should be kept in mind that the process of composting is accelerated when the waste material is turned at least a couple times a month.

You will want to locate your compost bins according to the functional needs of your family and also taking into consideration the aesthetics of the area. You should not place your compost pile near an area that you frequently use for entertaining, even if you have it screened with fencing or plants. It should be located where it gets plenty of air circulation, in a partially shady spot and near the garden area if possible.

By: Richard Dorads

It is not only important to get rid of pests from your garden, but it is also important to prevent them from destroying your garden. You can use chemicals in the form of pesticides to do this, but it may be as harmful to you as it is to the pests. It is also not good for the plants that grow in your garden. Using these chemicals has also been shown to be related to the cause of a number of diseases like Lymphoma, cancer, birth defects etc. These chemicals are also expensive. Hence using organic garden pest control strategies are beneficial for you and the plants.

One of the first steps you can take is using organic soil. Organic soil aids in the proper growth of plants and thus makes it better equipped to ward off the threats by your pests. You must use compost bins and compost pails, which is an integral part in organic garden pest control, which can be used to produce compost at home. There are several repellents that are good organic recipes for pest control like orange guard and organic insect killer repellent that can be used to kill or repel insects and bugs. These are non toxic in nature and provide effective results in killing or repelling the pests.

The most effective form of pest control is prevention. If you can grow your garden in such a way that the probability of pest attack is minimized, then use of repellents that generally come under the organic pest control category can be kept as a last resort.

You can start the whole process when you are deciding the kind of plants you want in your garden. By studying the types of plants and the various bugs that affect them, you can set up the defences as you know what type of bugs will affect your garden. Certain plants attract certain insects that are known to eat pests that affect other plants. By planting these plants together, you are essentially empowering the garden with its own natural defence system to get rid of the pests. There are certain kinds of plants that have their own natural defence system against pests. These plants can be useful additions in your garden as they provide organic garden pest control measures.

As part of organic garden pest control, you should take care of the soil in the garden and make sure it stays fertile and healthy throughout the year. You can do this by working on your garden throughout the year by adding compost and rearranging your plants. You should make sure that all the planting is done when conditions are not conducive for the growth of pests. Another useful strategy is to allow the growth of bugs that eat pests in your garden. This is where the use of chemicals can be disadvantageous as the bugs that are useful can also get killed.

In any case, you must be ready to get your hands dirty to combat the menace of these pests using organic garden pest control. You should carefully study each and every kind of pests that can likely affect your garden and study the different ways to get rid of them by checking upon sources like insect encyclopaedia. Due diligence and hard work in your garden are sure shot of ways of keeping the pests at bay.