By: Jaden Santon

Composting can be as simple or as complex as you want to make it. The best part about creating compost is that it can consist of any organic material and we all have access to plenty of that every single day because it is produced by the lawn, garden, and kitchen.  Compost is what happens when leaves, grass clippings, vegetable and fruit scraps, woodchips, straw, and small twigs are combined, then allowed to break down into a soil-like texture. Compost introduces and feeds diverse life in the soil, including bacteria, insects, worms, and more which support vigorous plant growth.

Compost is multi-faceted but not intended as a fertilizer. It offers only a relatively low proportion of nutrients, yet what it does is close to magical. In its finished form as mulch, it reduces evaporation, reduces or prevents weed growth, and insulates the soil from extreme temperature changes. Mulch also keeps the upper inches of the soil cooler in daytime, warmer at night.

Yet compost has humble beginnings. Common, easily accessible materials destined to decay together in a pile will give your soil the gift of minerals and other components it needs. The materials are indeed numerous. 

Regardless of the particular ingredients, making compost is akin to making bread or beer; soil-digesting bacteria like yeasts need warmth, moisture, air and something to feed on to keep them alive and growing. Almost all of the practical problems associated with making compost stem from too much or too little of those basic factors.

Compost is created from layers of grass clippings, leaves, weeds, kitchen scraps and, if available, farm animal manure. If you have meat eaters in your home, don’t use their meat scraps, which will attract rodents. Also, do not use litter from your dog or cat; it doesn’t break down properly and contains too many pathogens.

Over the years, composting has gotten a reputation for being a time-consuming job, but this is not necessarily the case. You don’t need to build a big box or turn the pile every so often. A barrel, a hole in the ground or a pile on top of the ground is satisfactory.

The important requirement is to be sure the waste material is covered with soil, so it doesn’t attract rats, other rodents or flies. You can build your layers directly on the ground, without any frame at all; if you use a container, be sure it is well ventilated.

The trick to successful compost is balancing ingredients high in nitrogen–fresh grass clippings, other fresh, green plant matter, most kitchen scraps–with those high in carbon–leaves, straw, dried grass, washed eggshells, wheat germ or other milled grains that have become too rancid or old to use, and any dried, brown plant matter. Too much nitrogenous matter yields an anaerobic, smelly pile. Too much carbonaceous matter results in a pile that never heats up. The ideal ratio is one part nitrogen to three parts carbon.

Start with a layer of brush–small twigs, no large branches–a couple of inches deep; this will help your pile to breathe. Then, keeping in mind the 1 to 3 ratio of nitrogen to carbon, add a layer of mixed plant material. You may enrich the pile with horse or cow manure. These materials don’t break down; they simply add nutrients to the final product.

Then lightly water the pile so it’s evenly moist. Too much water will interfere with aeration; too little water and the pile won’t ferment. If your pile sits in the open, you should pull a tarp over it before a storm, and then remove the tarp after the rain stops so the pile can breathe. An 8-inch layer of straw mulch spread over the top of the pile serves the same purpose.

Alternate layers until the pile is 5 feet high by 5 feet wide by whatever length you choose. A properly made pile that is loosely packed and well aerated will reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees within a few days. It should smell like wet hay. If the pile fails to heat up, pull it apart and redo it by adding layers of fresh green matter. If the pile becomes anaerobic (is too wet to aerate), pull it apart, let it dry out, use it as mulch and start a new pile.

After three weeks, the pile will have shrunk in size; this is normal. Dig into the pile with a spading fork and completely turn it over until the contents are redistributed; the idea is to put unfermented particles in contact with those that are further along. Let the pile rest, so the temperature will rise again. Turn it a second time five weeks later, let it rest a few weeks and, with luck, you’ll have a rich, crumbly pile of “black gold.”

Also, air is vital to any composting process. Without air (anaerobic) composting is possible but unpleasant with the putrescent of rotting material assaulting your nose. It is usually because there is too much nitrogen and too little air in the mixture. If you have an abundance of trees on your property, autumn leaves can be plentiful and messy, but they are there for your use and can be easily gathered and stored in leaf bags.

Timing is crucial. Your pile is fully composted when it fails to heat up after being turned. Then it is ready to use. And use it with a good feeling, for it is your garden’s natural fuel. Remember your objective, the foundation of every successful garden, is to achieve healthy soil.

Compost supplies the soil with a rich, friable source of humus and helps retain moisture in the garden, in addition to supplying valuable nutrients. By placing grass clippings, fallen leaves and unused plant parts in a compost pile, you are preparing them, through decomposition, to be put back to work for you.

Composting actually recycles garden waste and returns the nutrients that have been taken from the soil. By using organic composting agents, it is possible to speed-up the process of decomposition.

Now that you’ve gotten that garden in, how do you take care of it?

By: Warren Peters

Compost is basically organic matter. It is garden debris that is allowed to decay with time and is then put back into the soil as it has a lot of nutrient value and helps in the growth of plants. This process may take months to a year.

If you want to be an organic gardener who is successful then you must learn the benefits of compost. Compost is very useful as it helps in improving the texture and fertility of soil and planting beds and it is a very essential constituent of potting soils and greenhouse. It nutritive value is mainly dependent on the nutrient-containing materials and fertilizers that are added to the piles in the process of decomposition.

The value of compost to the average gardener is difficult to ascertain as an amateur gardener too will in some form or another, use compost. Compost helps plants grow better and keeps them healthy and green. Compost that is nutritive is generally used in the form of rotten manure and compost that is not enriched is humus.

One of the best quality soil used by gardeners contains one-third humus. Humus makes the soil light, airy and spongy, retentive of moisture. In sandy soils that do not have humus, the rainfall washes all the nutritive ingredients and clay soil in the absence of humus will become very hard and impervious to water.

Any materials that are organic and left to the elements will decompose. Grass clippings, old hay, straw, leaves, plant tops and sod are materials that could be use for making compost. A lot of gardeners add humus, that is raw organic materials like weeds to the soil around plantings without composting them.

Adding of raw organic material to the soil speeds the activities of the bacteria and this takes away nitrogen from the soil and causes the leaves of the plants to become yellow. Hence it is not advisable to add raw organic materials to the soil directly.

It is better if weeds are added to the compost pile and then put back into the soil when they have decomposed. Without composting, peat moss and leaf mold can be added directly to the soil, as they are composted already.

There are various methods that are used in the building of a compost pile. The size of your pile will depend on the area that is available to you. An ordinary leaf pile or a number of them may be located at different convenient points in your garden and may be covered with show fencing wire made into a circle.

In two years? time, depending on the climatic conditions, the leaves will become compost with not much effort from your side. This is the easiest method to compost leaves. This leaf compost is an excellent source of supplements for the soil and potting humus. But it is not very rich in nutrients. Oak and beech leaves are acid. They are very good humus that can be placed around wide leaved evergreens that love acid.

By: MIKE SELVON

One of the great things about organic waste is that with enough time and the right conditions it will decompose. But that should not be construed to mean that you can toss any kind of organic material onto your compost pile.

But recycling your yard waste via composting is a great way to go. You can take your lawn clippings, leaves, hedge trimmings and any plant trimmings that are “non-woody” and add them to your compost heap. You can even add the wood items if you first make sure they are chopped into very small pieces.

In most backyard composting, the largest single contributor is the huge amount of leaves that rain down each autumn season. In addition, grass clippings can be added to it if they are not mulched and left to nurture the lawn itself. When lawn clippings are used in the compost mix they should be used together with other yard waste elements.

If you have a supply of wood items such as small logs, branches or twigs, then you will need to have them chopped or ground up if they are more than a quarter inch in diameter. If you just have a few of these larger wood items you want to put in your compost pile, then you can also use a corn knife to cut them down to a size that will decompose easily.

Many types of kitchen waste items are also appropriate to be included in a compost pile. Fruit rinds, vegetable peelings and scraps, coffee grounds and eggshells that have been crushed are all perfectly acceptable to use in composting and this is a very effective way to recycle these kinds of materials.

There are some organic materials that need to be avoided and which should not be added because of potential health hazards or nuisances that can be created. No type of pet feces should be included in a compost heap because of potential diseases that can be transmitted. Any kind of meat, whole eggs, dairy products and grease should also be excluded because they will attract rodents and other vermin.

In most instances, diseased organisms that are common to plants and weed seeds are destroyed through the process of composting, as long as these components are in the center of the heap and the temperature in the center reaches at least 140 degree F. But, experts caution that it is difficult to assure that such waste will be brought to the center during the composting process. As a result, putting large amounts of diseased plants or weeds with seeds into your compost heap could end up causing problems and should be avoided.

A good compost pile needs a balance of materials that will enhance the decomposition process. In general, keeping the mix to a ration of about one-to-one of brown material with green material works well.

Brown material includes items such as manure, decaying leaves, and newspaper and cardboard. Green material would include the hedge and grass clippings, coffee grounds, and fruit and vegetable peelings.

It is a good idea to keep the compost pile contained in a structure of some kind. This not only helps speed up the decomposition process, but it also minimizes the space needed. You can pick up composter bins at most local garden stores and these are a very good way to help you manage your composting while also helping to keep your backyard looking clean and tidy.

By: Warren Peters

Compost is basically organic matter. It is garden debris that is allowed to decay with time and is then put back into the soil as it has a lot of nutrient value and helps in the growth of plants. This process may take months to a year.

If you want to be an organic gardener who is successful then you must learn the benefits of compost. Compost is very useful as it helps in improving the texture and fertility of soil and planting beds and it is a very essential constituent of potting soils and greenhouse. It nutritive value is mainly dependent on the nutrient-containing materials and fertilizers that are added to the piles in the process of decomposition.

The value of compost to the average gardener is difficult to ascertain as an amateur gardener too will in some form or another, use compost. Compost helps plants grow better and keeps them healthy and green. Compost that is nutritive is generally used in the form of rotten manure and compost that is not enriched is humus.

One of the best quality soil used by gardeners contains one-third humus. Humus makes the soil light, airy and spongy, retentive of moisture. In sandy soils that do not have humus, the rainfall washes all the nutritive ingredients and clay soil in the absence of humus will become very hard and impervious to water.

Any materials that are organic and left to the elements will decompose. Grass clippings, old hay, straw, leaves, plant tops and sod are materials that could be use for making compost. A lot of gardeners add humus, that is raw organic materials like weeds to the soil around plantings without composting them.

Adding of raw organic material to the soil speeds the activities of the bacteria and this takes away nitrogen from the soil and causes the leaves of the plants to become yellow. Hence it is not advisable to add raw organic materials to the soil directly.

It is better if weeds are added to the compost pile and then put back into the soil when they have decomposed. Without composting, peat moss and leaf mold can be added directly to the soil, as they are composted already.

There are various methods that are used in the building of a compost pile. The size of your pile will depend on the area that is available to you. An ordinary leaf pile or a number of them may be located at different convenient points in your garden and may be covered with show fencing wire made into a circle.

In two years? time, depending on the climatic conditions, the leaves will become compost with not much effort from your side. This is the easiest method to compost leaves. This leaf compost is an excellent source of supplements for the soil and potting humus. But it is not very rich in nutrients. Oak and beech leaves are acid. They are very good humus that can be placed around wide leaved evergreens that love acid.

By: MIKE SELVON

Certainly there is a good deal of discussion and concern nowadays about organic products and also about defining the meaning of the term organic waste. Essentially, it is the byproduct of any material that is biological in origin. Common types of such waste includes virtually all paper products, including newspapers and cardboard; food waste; green waste material which encompasses yard and garden waste; animal manure and feces; and various biosolids and sludge components.

The process that organic matter goes through to become waste is called composting. The composting process breaks down the microorganisms in the organic material through a combination of exposure to heat, moisture, oxygen and bacteria. Once this organic material has passed through this decomposing process, it can be reused as a very effective soil additive.

In many ways, organic waste is a valuable part of the process of life on this planet. In essence, composting of organic materials is the original, and most effective form of recycling, invented and perfected by Mother Nature herself.

Once organic materials are gathered together in a compost pile, the microorganisms rapidly increase in number and essentially grow into a community that “colonizes” the composter. Through the natural biological functions of the microorganisms, the organic components are systematically broken down and the result is a nutrient rich compost.

As the bacterial microorganisms grow, they assimilate the starches, sugars and organic acids found in the waste matter. A side effect of their activity is a rise in the temperature in the center-most portion of the compost heap. Eventually, the temperature of the core of the compost pile will reach more than 140 degrees Fahrenheit and this heat contributes to the escalating decomposition of the material.

When the busy bacteria have consumed all of the sugars and starches and other materials they feast upon, the interior temperature of the compost heap begins to fall. As the temperatures become lower, other kinds of microorganisms, such as fungi, become more dominant in the composting community. At this stage the waste is considered to be stabilizing but there are still biological activities going on which will affect the woody elements of the compost mixture, allowing them to be broken down as well.

In order to continue through the composting process, the compost heap needs to be turned. This is a simple process that brings the material that is on the edges of the heap into the center so that it can be exposed to this process of heating as described above. It is recommended to allow the compost pile to sit undisturbed for approximately two weeks between turnings.

A compost heap can continue to grow by adding additional organic waste at any time. The compost pile simply needs to be turned at regular intervals of about every other week and the decomposition process will continue. In four to six months the composting process will have done its work and the compost can be mixed in with the soil as a very effective fertilizer.