By: D Acres Of New Hampshire

Compost is part of a solution to our current state of pollution. I choose to grow organically because I do not wish to introduce synthetic chemicals into the food, air and water supply. The process of making compost is a sensible alternative to the commercial petroleum based synthetic 10-20-10 fertilizers. Compost builds the health of soil and provides nutrients for plant growth.

Our landfills are overflowing with organic materials that could have been recycled as compost. By creating a compost system we reduce our needs for more landfills and municipal services locally. On a global level, composting is a method to reduce our dependence on distant sources of oil.

There are many possible recipes for making compost. It is similar to creating a soup of leftovers, an artistic expression of organic degradation. The process involves recycling anything that is organic (once living) into a form that serves as plant food. The household is the best source of materials, obviously toxics should be avoided.

The following is a list of possible ingredients; grass clippings, kitchen waste, wood ashes, weeds, leaves, garden residue, pet and human hair, shredded paper, twigs and wood chips, and animal manures.

Here are some exceptions and considerations. Dog, cat and human manure should be treated separately considering disease pathogens. Garden residue should be avoided if pesticides or herbicides had been applied, or if the plants were diseased. Kitchen waste that includes meat must be treated carefully to avoid odor and local scavengers. The site location and the mixing of the proper ratio of ingredients determines a successful compost pile. Sites should be accessible, convenient to dump the daily kitchen waste. Depending on the scale of the system, it may be appropriate to plan for tractor and trailer to transport material to build the pile. A common system is the three pile method.

Compost piles can be contained by fencing, this allows the pile to be built vertically and provides air ventilation. The size of the pile is determined by the ability to turn the quantity of material. The freshest material is layered into the first pile. Oxygen, water and biologic factors begin to degrade the material. This process generates heat, this heat spurs microbial activity and kills weed seeds and disease pathogens. After a period of time, dependent on the type of materials and the ambient temperature, the compost is turned into the second pile. In the second pile the biologic activity builds until a point where it stabilizes and becomes useful for plants. At this point the compost is stored ready for usage in the third pile.

The proper ratio of raw ingredients and water determines the compost process. The ratio of Carbon to Nitrogen is crucial. A ratio of 30:1 is ideal for compost. Materials high in nitrogen like manure and kitchen scraps need a lot of leaves and wood chips to achieve a proper balance. Otherwise, the bacteria are over-stimulated by the available nitrogen, over multiply, and die before they decompose the high carbon material. A properly balanced chemistry is required. Likewise the right amount of water is essential. A wet pile becomes a stinky anaerobic mess that is difficult to turn, dryness also prevents decomposition. The ideal is damp but not over saturated.

Finished compost material is not recognizable as what it was. Properly prepared, compost is a stable, odorless plant food. We can nourish crops by building the life of the soil. Compost is the alternative to petroleum based synthetic fertilizers that pollute food and water. Households, restaurants, schools, and municipalities can use the simple science of compost to more efficiently use resources.

Josh Trought is a member of the Pemigewasset chapter of the Audubon Society of New Hampshire. He lives, works and practices organic farming at D Acres Organic Farm & Educational Homestead www.dacres.org.

By: Douglas Hill

The concept of composting has been around for quite a long time in the forests. Leaves fall to the forest floor, decompose, and their nutrients will be absorbed back into the trees through the roots. Farmers and Gardeners have been taking advantage of the nutrient rich by product from this decomposition for thousands of years and you can too.

Composting is a great way to add nutrients to your garden or potting soil. Not only is it good for your garden and plants, it also is a good way for you to help reduce your overall garbage going to the dump. There are no hard and fast rules in what you should do your composting in. In fact you could do it in a pile in the yard, although it will probably not be well accepted by the rest of your family. While you can go out and buy a commercially sold unit that will do well for all your composting needs, I prefer to save a few bucks and build one myself.

The real hero’s in the world of composting are the fungi, bacteria, worms and other insects that will take your yard and kitchen waste and turn it into the black gold you want for your pots and garden. Now it is in your best interest to keep these guys in good conditions so they can digest the food you give them. Their basic requirements are just like you and I, they are food, water, and air. If you want to help these insects and microbes along, keep your compost in a nice cool corner of your yard.

To better understand these basic needs for your compost let’s start with the food. Essentially there are two types of food. There are the brown foods that include straw, autumn leaves, wood chips/sawdust, and dead plant material. These materials mainly consist of long chains of sugar molecules that the microbes digest and use as a source of energy. There are also the greens such as green grass and weeds, kitchen fruit and vegetables, coffee grounds, and tea bags. These materials have a lot more nitrogen in them than the browns. This nitrogen in your compost pile acts as a source of protein to all those microbes for them to feed off of as well.

The next part is the air. It is very important to get good airflow into your pile. The microbes you want to decompose your pile cannot do this without air. If there is no air supply then other microbes will move in. They will also do the job but they work a lot slower and tend to make the compost smell like rotten garbage. So unless you want your backyard to smell like the city dump you will have it “fluff” your pile. “Fluffing” your pile is easily done with a spade or a garden fork. You will have to completely break it apart and then pile it back together leaving it in a “Fluffy” condition.

Some “food” like grass clippings or wet leaves will sit heavy on the pile and not allow good air flow through that portion of the pile. You should mix this sort of ingredient into the pile to avoid a spot that won’t decompose very easily. Straw is a great ingredient to add to your compost because unlike grass they will not mat down into slimy layers and add to the airflow.

Water is the last important ingredient in your compost. This is where it gets a little tricky. You need to get the water just right to aid and not hinder the work of the microbes. Too wet and the pile gets too heavy and the airflow gets cut off to the middle of the pile. Too dry and the microbes will not be able to break down the waste as easily. Ideally you want to get every particle wet but not saturated. In wet climates you may need a lid or a tarp to avoid saturation.

Having a good mix of the greens and browns is a good thing for a few reasons. Not only does it supply all your little microbes with a good diet, but it also helps in airflow since the browns are dry and “light” and the greens are wet and “heavy”.